Navigating Europe Amid A Pandemic: A Self-Help Guide From A Single Girl
A thirst for brand new experiences as a twenty-something year old led me by the collar, coaxing me toward the unknown. Yearning for bouts of travel is a frequent occurrence. I have a constant need to burst my own bubble and gain a new sense of consciousness. Afterall - lived, worldly experiences educate like no curriculum could. In a rush of spontaneity, I seized the moment and booked a return flight to Paris, creating the skeleton of what would later become a lengthy itinerary. Throughout the following weeks, those bare bones were fleshed out. Little by little, piece by piece, transforming into its own living, breathing life force once August hit.
Unlike previous trips abroad, navigating COVID-19 mandates became an adventure of its own - only made possible by a government issued pass or golden ticket - known as my CDC vaccination card. On my eve of departure, French officials suddenly announced the introduction of the French Health Pass. With extreme urgency, documents were submitted via email to obtain one. It never came. Nonetheless, that tattered CDC card was whisked along with me, saving the day. With a small carry-on suitcase in tow, I crossed oceans, borders and time zones until finally stepping foot on French soil.
Paris - the city of love was equally as charming when visiting with kin. I stayed on the left bank of the Seine river. The Latin Quarter, which neighbors the Notre Dame Cathedral, was as vibrant as can be. Streets were bordered by quaint Parisian eateries. Pastel skies - accented by what resembled hand painted clouds - contrasted against inner city castle-like architecture.
Every August, Parisian locals flock to the French countryside.
Every August, Parisian locals flock to the French countryside. Pandemic related tourism numbers and the mass exodus had its advantages as the city was far less populated. Major tourist attractions remained open for the flurry of vaccinated international travelers - meaning shorter wait times for famous sites such as Musée du Louvre and the Eiffel Tower. Though not brave enough to enter and peer outwards from its multiple viewing platforms - I did not lose out on the experience. On ground level, enchanting parklands filled with fragrant flowers lined its base. Visible from all sides of the city, the steel structure, so prominent amongst the skyline, was simply breathtaking.
Despite being a walkable city, Paris’ public transport system was unmatched. The Metro was pristine, well thought out and efficient. Connections to and from major airports such as Charles de Gaulle were hassle-free. This guaranteed more time to revel in the glory of Paris and less time stressing the journey. As for dining, in true European fashion, most businesses close for lengthy periods of time from midday until the late afternoon, opening again for dinner. Sundays and Mondays are days to expect major closures. Additionally, all indoor and outdoor businesses required proof of vaccination before entering. An abundance of on the ground, rapid antigen testing sites proved fruitful for the next leg of my tour, as a negative test was needed to travel within the EU. Upon confirmation of my results, I scurried away to the second destination of my journey: Italy.
Nestled on the Amalfi Coast in Southern Italy, Positano was a real-life fairytale. Mediterranean homes bordered the mountainsides. By sunset, those same properties lit up like fireflies, flickering in the night sky and reflecting on the mirrored surface of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Reachable via car from Naples or ferry from Sorrento, visiting this coastal gem required extensive planning around transportation. Opting for a private transfer - my driver, Luigi, stopped at various vantage points and coffee shops along the way. Racing down the rolling hills, the initial view of Positano in the summertime was simply sublime. The main beach, Spiaggia Grande, was picture perfect - resembling that of a postcard. On one side, striped chairs lay perfectly parallel to one another. On the other, sun-soaked beach goers graced the gray pebble shores.
When the clock struck noon, fresh gelato provided solace from the sweltering Italian sun.
For il pranzo - or lunch, wood-fired pizzas were prepared with the freshest of ingredients. Once arrived, steep, narrow pathways proved easier to traverse on foot. In terms of accessibility, these pathways - preceded by infinite flights of steps - may act as a hindrance to some. I was fortunate enough to be situated just off ground level in a stunning Villa only two minutes walk from the beach. The exterior, dressed by sprawling, magenta bougainvillea was an oasis in itself.
Viewing Positano from a different perspective - by boat - is highly recommended. The bustling oceanside, filled with restaurants and touring businesses presented that opportunity. Once aboard, one is graced with panoramic views of those stacked, colorful dwellings whilst surrounded by a sea of offshore islands. Sipping champagne on a yacht, swaying in tune with the melody of the ocean was nothing short of hypnotic.
When the clock struck noon, fresh gelato provided solace from the sweltering Italian sun. For il pranzo - or lunch, wood-fired pizzas were prepared with the freshest of ingredients. Dishes were elevated through the added touch of mindfulness and kindness, exhibiting the Italian way. The hospitality and generosity of this tiny township was second to none and whilst I was asked to produce my CDC card at assorted intervals, Positano’s policies were slightly more relaxed.
An hour from Positano rests the ancient ruins of Pompeii.
The spiritual energy within the grounds could be felt upon entry. by Mount Vesuvius centuries ago, many of the village's buildings remained intact, having stood the test of time. Civilians who were once buried under meters of ash were excavated and preserved, frozen in fear. As an archaeological site, Pompeii was both intriguing and chilling. New signs of life were present, with fruitful vineyards and elaborate gardens wrapping themselves around the town. Exploring the ruins, only possible by foot, took approximately three hours to cover half of the terrain.
After a mind blowing experience, I was off to Naples for my next connecting flight. Ending my voyage in Brussels, Arnhem and Amsterdam seemed to be the beautiful, yet unexpected polar opposite of the first half. Lightened pandemic protocols meant that masks were only enforced on public transport and in some private businesses. The cool climate during the Summer meant winter attire. On the outskirts of Brussels, lush green countryside, nourished by intermittent rain, surrounded one at every turn. Once in the heart of the city, you’re free to roam. Allowing yourself to get lost is where you find the true beauty.
Floral arrangements dressed the region’s famous Art Nouveau architecture. Solid gold accents swept historical buildings such as the La Grand-Place. Sweet delicacies, including vegan Belgian waffles and chocolate, presented themselves at every turn. When it was time to depart the city of adventure, a short train ride swiftly deposited me across the border into Holland.
In close proximity to the border of Germany, Arnhem sits in the most eastern part of the Netherlands. It is a rural city with its own heartbeat. The town center, lit with a neon ode to sex workers, showcased its uniquely charming persona. I stayed in Arnhem and commuted to Amsterdam; the final pinpoint on my map.
Amsterdam was the embodiment of an eco-friendly city. The air - so crisp and invigorating - soothed the soul as if the Earth was thanking you. Masses of bicycles bypassed me at every turn. Grachtenpand, or canal houses, sat on the edge of interconnected channels. Pink tulips in complete bloom garnished the stalls of street vendors. The last remaining functional De Gooyer windmill - bursting with history and character - sat on well-kept, grassy banks.
I perused the Amsterdam Museum, viewing family friend Sithabile Mlotshwa’s ‘A Truly Dutch Creation, the Citizen as Investor and Stakeholder’ installation. The city’s vegan food was a hit, with an assortment of plant based restaurants to indulge in. The local knowledge of marvelous friends was extremely handy, though this lively city would be just as electrifying as a solo traveler. Five cities later, Amsterdam was the perfect crescendo to end on.
The world is ever-evolving and as humans, we adapt. Given that the Earth hasn’t stopped spinning yet, I’ve figured that life has to be spent living… as long as you’re keeping yourself and others safe in the process.
*It is important to note that as of Tuesday, August 31st 2021, the E.U has removed the United States of America off its ‘Safe Travel List’. The EU has no unified COVID-19 tourism policy andnational EU governments have the authority to decide whether they keep their borders open toU.S. tourists. Possible restrictions could include quarantines, further testing requirements uponarrival or even a total ban on all nonessential travel from the U.S.
References
France
1. French Health Pass: How to Get a French Health Pass | US Embassy & Consulates in France
2. Paris Visitors Bureau: Paris tourist office - Official website
3. Notre Dame Cathedral: Notre Dame Cathedral Paris (France)
4. Latin Quarter, Paris: Latin Quarter, Paris: 16 Top Attractions, Tours & Hotels
5. Musée Du Louvre: Louvre Museum Official Website
6. Eiffel Tower: The official Eiffel Tower website: tickets, news, info...
Italy
7. Positano: Amalfi Coast Guide
8. Spiaggia Grande: Spiaggia Grande
9. Grassi Junior Boats: Grassi Junior Positano Boat Services - Boat tours and rentals on
the Amalfi Coast
Pompeii
10. Pompeii: Homepage - Pompeii Sites Official Pompeii Archaeological Site
Brussels
11. Brussels: Visit Brussels: visit.brussels
12. La Grand-Place: La Grand-Place, Brussels
13. Veganwaf’ Brussels: Gaufre Bruxelles | Vegan Waffle : des gaufres sans aucun produit
d'origine animale
Arnhem
14. Arnhem: Visit Arnhem - These are the best things to do
Amsterdam
15. Amsterdam: I amsterdam - Your guide to visit, enjoy, live, work & invest in Amsterdam | I
amsterdam
16. Amsterdam Museum: Amsterdam Museum | Amsterdam Museum
17. Vegan Junk Food Bar: https://www.veganjunkfoodbar.com/
18. De Gooyer Windmill: https://www.brouwerijhetij.nl/molen-de-gooyer/?lang=en
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